Know Your Cocoa
Cocoa (theobrama cacao) is a product extracted from the bean of the cacao plant (a tree originally from tropical America). Cocoa is the basic ingredient in chocolate. The different species of cacao are generally divided into two groups: cacao plants that produce superior-quality cocoa and cacao plants that produce ordinary-quality cocoa (used mostly in the industry). The fruit of the cacao plant, its pod, is an oblong berry measuring up to 12 inches long and 3 to 5 inches wide. It contains a gelatinous pulp that harbors 30 to 40 pink or pale purple seeds (beans). These seeds are made up of a kernel, a seed coat and a germ. Only the kernels are eaten, and only after being processed, as they are very bitter.
Cocoa powder is high in starch, which makes it difficult to blend with other substances. Mix it with a cold liquid (if it is hot, lumps will form) or add sugar to it, which separates the starch particles; it can also be mixed after sifting.
Cocoa can be used to flavor cakes, pies, puddings, cookies, sauces, frostings, ice cream, mousses, flans, breads, candies, syrups, milk, drinks and liqueurs.
Not all cocoas are created equal. There is a difference between natural and Dutch process cocoas. Don’t swap cocoa types and do not use mixes for hot chocolate drinks. Use what is recommended in the recipe. Both types of cocoa have rich chocolate flavor, are equally delicious, and contain between 8 and 24 percent fat.
In my kitchen, I usually use natural cocoa because it is readily available. Its acidity works in tandem with the baking soda in a batter to create carbon dioxide bubbles, which leaven cakes. Dutch process cocoa is treated with an alkali agent that neutralizes and removes some of the cocoa’s acidity. The process was developed in the Netherlands in the mid-1800s, hence the name. This process changes the cocoa’s chemical composition, so it doesn’t need to be combined with baking soda. You will find Dutch process cocoa at specialty food stores and most supermarkets. Look closely at the label. Some cocoas are alkalized even if the label doesn’t clearly state it.
